Laatste update op 18 November 2017
When you visit Venice, you actually only want this: to find that one perfect small square. And I can tell you this: it exists. A small heavenly square of which I preferably would not want to tell you about because I am afraight it’s quiet character will be gone when I return to the city.
Does it get any better than this? Campiello del Remer (remer = rowing oars, referring to the craftsman that crafted them in the past). You will find it a stone’s throw from the Rialtobridge and the Strada Nova with its many shops. Floods of tourist pass it very closely, unaware of the beauty they miss. This is simply because you can only reach the square via a couple unappealling small alleys. The square has, apart from a lovely restaurant facility, a typical Venetian vera da pozzo, a well.
After I had visted the church San Giovanni Crisostomo with my guide Ine Legerstee, she directed me to this square to show me some stone ornaments. When the tour was done, I directly went back to this lovely square. I wanted to sit there in the sun next to the grapevine to drink a Pinot Grigio at the ‘Taverne del Campiello Remer’, an ancient building that used to belong to the family Morosini. It is a great example of a very old Venetian building with for example century-old strong, dark wooden beams. As lovely as the handsome bartender.
It did not take long before I got company at ‘Al Remer’. A young Dutchman travelling through Europe to Barcelona had read somewhere that he could drink and eat from the warm and cold buffet for 5 euro (and yes, that is correct!). He sat beside me, talking about his road trip. Then an older Venetian, Beppi, joined in. He was awaiting his foreign friends. Eventually we had a wonderful evening in mixed setting, directed by the inspiring Beppi. He seemed to be inviolable, that old man. I was happy that our expedition took us in the direction of Cannaregio. That was convenient because I could now easily hop on the vaporetto to Murano from the Fondamente Nove, direction appartment. And they offer service throughout the night …
In the picture you see the young Dutchman to the left, three of the four foreign ladies in the middle (they were in Venice for their study of the Italian language), and Beppi to the right.
The officiële website of Taverne al Remer »
These photo’s of the suqare and the taverne op alloggibarbaria » give a good impression of the location. And even though it lies at the Canal Grande, from the canal you will easily overlook this spot. Lucky me!